Incredible, Edible Squash
Groceries are bursting with colorful gourds, but they’re not just for looks
There they were, whole bins overflowing: pumpkins, butternuts, buttercups, acorns and turbans. I was standing outside, handpicking the dozen I’d take home, overlooking the rain soaking through my old college sweatshirt.
They were the first winter squash of the season, my favorite season, fall. And they always remind me of home, or, at least, my dad: thick-skinned and a little craggy, but with a sweet heart inside.
They’re also good for you.
Winter squash are packed with vitamins A and C, potassium, iron and fiber but are low in fat, making them one of the most comforting comfort foods because they carry none of the guilt.
But that only hints at their virtues.
“Most of them are relatively cheap; you can get a huge hard-shell squash for next to nothing,” says Michael Schmidt, executive chef at Too Che in Novi. “If you’re looking not to spend too much money but fill up your gut, buy a squash.”
“What I like about them is that they don’t need refrigeration, so you can make an arrangement of them for days or weeks before you even cook them,” says Joan Mathison, pastry chef educator with the Produce Station in Ann Arbor.
Despite all this, winter squash often are overlooked, taken for granted, even.
“They’re underappreciated, but maybe it comes from people needing some new ideas because they’re tired of the old recipes,” Mathison adds. “They look a little too complicated, too. They’re so big.”
If the closest you’ve come to cooking a squash was putting too large a candle in your jack-o-lantern, the experience can be a little intimidating. Those hard shells, pulpy centers, and what to do with the seeds?
But the fact is, baking, microwaving and roasting are the most common methods of cooking squash, and most sold in grocery stores come with helpful instructional stickers explaining both. If there are no stickers, here are some simple instructions.
Bake squash whole, cut in half or in pieces in an oven preheated to 350-375 degrees. If cooking whole, pierce in several spots, nearly through to the cavity before baking. Place on a baking sheet covered in parchment (easy cleanup!) and bake until tender. If baked whole, cook slightly before cutting in half and removing the seeds. Baking time will depend on the size of the squash. A golden nugget, for instance, should take about 45 minutes.
Place squash halves or pieces in a baking dish and add about ½ inch of water.
To microwave, cut in half and remove the seeds and pulp. Place cut-side down in a microwave-safe dish. Add about ½ inch of water, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on full power until tender.
Timing will depend on variety and size. Acorn squash will take 16-18 minutes.
You also can try your hand at roasting and grilling, which intensify flavor and enhance presentation.
To roast squash, cut in half and remove the pulp and seeds. Brush with a little olive oil on the cut side and place, cut-side down, on a baking sheet covered in parchment. Roast in a 400-degree oven until tender.
It’s best to cut squash into small pieces or quarters (depending on variety) before grilling. Brush each with a little olive oil and place on the grill over medium heat until just tender (a wooden skewer inserted into the squash should have some resistance). Turn over, sprinkle with a little brown sugar, if desired, and continue to grill until soft.
On this page you’ll find recipes that use squash in unexpected new ways, ranging from a sublime Butternut Pecan Tart to a savory Lasagna with Squash, Ricotta and Fried Sage Leaves.
So celebrate fall. Buy a squash or two. And maybe, even, think about your dad.